On The Menu In Print
Nobody has a beef with this beef — it is grass-fed
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
It's a perfect August day, among rolling hills on Jamison Farm in Latrobe.
Jamison is famous for its fabulous lamb, but use of its processing plant
recently expanded to include other meat farmers. And today, beef rules. Not just
any beef, of course, but carefully, naturally nurtured animals fed 100-percent
grass, from birth to slaughter.
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Valencia - Spain's Newest Buzz
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Travelers Journal
Founded in 138 B.C. by a small band of Roman soldiers, Valencia has been sacked by the Visigoths, conquered by the Moors and re-conquered, in 1238, by Spanish King Jaime. It was forged as a prosperous trading center in the 15th century, expanded by returning Spanish Colonials in the late 19th early 20th , then again redefined by modern hydrology and architecture. This charming city, a study in contrasts, is fine-tuned to high-wire transformations and multiple reinventions! Valencianos, friendly and welcoming, are fiercely proud of their city and ancestry. A trip here offers engaging explorations of past treasures, current innovations and ambitious plans for the future.
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Valencia-Spain's Newest Buzz in Spain
Ann & Peter Haigh
Our Blog - http://onthemenuradio.wordpress.com
See April 5, 2010 post
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Valencia - photographs
Ann & Peter Haigh
Our Blog - http://onthemenuradio.wordpress.com
Great pictures of our October 2009 visit to Valencia, Spain. See April 4, 2010 post.
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A Seasonal Feast
Ann Haigh
For Fanfare Magazine
Winter holiday-makers, start your stoves! Four talented Pittsburgh chefs steer you, course by course, to a joyful dinner celebrating family and friends. Here are their recipesand the inspirations behind them. All recipes serve 8 to 10.
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Taste of Pittsburgh: Discover worldly menu of dining options
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Like the city itself, Pittsburgh's restaurant scene models reinvention,
diversity and a "green" attitude. Today's array of quality dining amazes
visitors, and even locals marvel at such rapid expansion of their foodscape.
Gastronomic diversity roots deeply in Pittsburgh's urban fabric. Historically, waves of immigrants settled here, tossing their native cuisines into our great melting pot of tastes. The presence of international corporations and the multicultural populations of large hospital and university campuses also abet a global-centric food environment. Match the mood of the moment, plug in some geography and scroll through possibilities — from casual to fine dining, cutting-edge cuisine to seafood and steak, Italian, Indian, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Cambodian, Korean, Pan-Asian, Peruvian, Nicaraguan, Brazilian, French, Spanish, Portuguese, Ethiopian, Mexican, German, Eastern European, Middle Eastern.
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Venturing Down Under? Get yourself off the beaten path
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
You've seen Harbor Bridge, Bondi Beach and the Opera House in Sydney,
Queensland's Great Barrier Reef, Ayers Rock -- now called by its Aboriginal
name, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park -- and Melbourne's famous Victorian
architecture. You've bought a boomerang, a didgeridoo and an Akubra hat.
Whew! You must be exhausted -- and half trampled by tour buses! It's time to
venture off the beaten path. Not too far, just to where you can stop and smell
the native eucalyptus ("gum trees").
Don't forget how big this country is -- about the size of the continental United States, with a huge desert center and 18 million inhabitants spread out mostly along the coast. Absorb its diversity in small bites. Let these tidbits from the southeast corner whet your appetite. And remember, when planning your trip, the seasons down under are exactly opposite those in our part of the world.
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How to relax and putter around in Southern Tuscany
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Tuscany's always ready for its close-up -- glorious landscapes, enchanting
cities, matchless history, superlative art and great food and wine. Connoisseurs view Siena as the area's most beautiful city, Florence as its
cultural Mecca and Pisa as a powerful tourist magnet attracting the entire world
to its curious leaning tower. While these and other famous centers are
spectacular, there's also a quieter side of Tuscany to explore. Dot some spots
in the region's southern part, add brilliant bits of Etruscan Lazio and
quintessential Umbria, then meander to connect the dots: You've got a travel
plan!
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Eat your heart out: Tuscany tastes delicious
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Superior local ingredients and a strong culinary culture make traveling in this region of Italy a memorable gastronomic adventure. The kitchens at La Posta Vecchia, Il Pelicano, the Convento di San Francesco and Hotel Terme di Saturnia are world-class.
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Countryside Dining
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Getting Gidleigh
Turn down the narrow, muddy, high-walled road from the village square in Chagford, Devon. Go deeply into a valley on the edge of the brooding Dartmoor National Park. Most of the road is wide enough for only one car, so drive slowly and be prepared to back up to a passing place should a vehicle come in the opposite direction. A handsome half-timber, stone fronted mansion, set on 45 acres of gardens and woodlands, looms up from the mist. This is Gidleigh Park, a Relais & Chateaux property and a special place.
Gidleigh Park's restaurant is one of the finest in England. Ten years ago, chef Michael Caines took over the Michelin one-star kitchen, earned a second star and is targeting the third. This remarkable man executes an opulent tasting menu, utilizing the fine local products of his southwest England "larder" millefeuille of pan-fried foie gras, with turnip, apple, boudin noir and sherry vinegar sauce; a quail egg tartlet with onion confit, smoked bacon and black truffle; the freshest sea scallops accented with celeriac puree, soy sauce and truffle vinaigrette; luscious filet of locally raised Red Ruby beef with wild mushroom puree and Madeira sauce.
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Rain or shine, Amsterdam is a city of substance
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Pack your galoshes and wind-resistant umbrellas. Amsterdam is a delightful
destination, except for its frequently wet and blustery weather. Always
historic, aesthetic and scenic, variously trendy, quirky, boisterous and serene,
this European city appeals to diverse interests. It's easy to get to, frequently
offered at bargain E-Saver prices, and compact - hence a good choice for an
extended weekend.
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Exciting U.K. properties combine fine dining and luxurious lodging
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
The concept of the "city or country house with fine dining" or "a fine-dining
restaurant with rooms" is not entirely new.
But the British are rapidly expanding this niche, updating it while adding
considerable flair. Travelers and gourmets alike flock to compelling settings --
in cities, towns, villages or the countryside -- to find lavish hospitality,
memorable experiences and fabulous flavors. Here are some destinations to
target.
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Chicago: Stepping up to the plate
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
A banal gray-brick building belies the dramatic interior, edgy food and
sophisticated service of Alinea. That's the recently debuted stage for
wunderkind chef Grant Achatz -- and one in a new wave of dining establishments
making Chicago way more than just a blip on the gourmet radar screen.
Historically, Chicago's food scene focused on steak, stiff French, small
ethnics and such casual specialties as deep-dish pizza and hot dogs. That was
then. Now, visitors are spoiled for choices in brilliant dining -- especially
contemporary American. And the city is also fast becoming an epicenter of
experimental cuisine.
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Cupid's pantry: Gift ideas for the food-obsessed lover
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
David Kamp's gossipy dish of a book, "The United States of Arugula," traces the
great food revolution that moved America from '50s wiggly gelatin salads to
today's micro-sprouts and sushi. The result: a gourmet nation populated by
highly-evolved eaters, cooks, kitchen shoppers and Food Network junkies.
Plotting that "day of love" just got simpler. Try some of these tasteful
gifts to please your special foodie Valentine.
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Food fancy
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Wylie Dufresne looms large in today's food media. He's the award-winning chef
behind such sensations as warm ice cream, pretzel consomme and a much-publicized
pirated -- from him -- "egg" dish.
But way beyond the news-grabbing, wacky-sounding -- though highly
sophisticated -- dishes, this young chef is achieving international recognition
for his future-forward cuisine. A philosophy graduate turned culinarian, he was
one of five James Beard Foundation finalists for 2007 Best Chef New York City, a
fiercely competitive award.
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Local chef takes a bite out of the Big Apple
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
The media spotlight is shining on Portugal-born Toni Pais' native cuisine.
"I guess they're running out of countries," he jokes."The (Iberian) peninsula's big right now. Spain's huge, and everything Portuguese, especially
the food, is in fashion."
A natural charmer, Pais is one of the city's most popular chefs. On daily
shopping trips to the Strip District, he sports a trademark ear-to-ear smile,
vibrant brown eyes and precise, close-cropped jet-black hair, frequently topped
by a baseball cap. In and out of shops, he greets people, conversing animatedly,
with a lingering lilt of accent.
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Public notice: Chef draws attention with personal style
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Roaming the globe, Chef Brad Farmerie plucks flavors, culinary techniques and
experiences from diverse cultures.
He then filters these references through his personal, contemporary vision to
realize a unique brand of fusion cuisine. The former Pittsburgher says his
eclectic cooking style focuses on "richness, acidity and texture." But a
restless curiosity and an adventurous palate bolster bold explorations. This is
not your '90s fusion.
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Sotiris Kitrilakis: From nuclear to nurturer
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Charisma describes attributes of personal magnetism, charm and leadership. It's
a Greek word befitting a gorgeous Greek, Sotiris Kitrilakis, a man of warmth,
sensibility and intelligence.
An internationally renowned Greek food expert, Kitrilakis will visit
Pittsburgh this week to create an authentic Greek feast in celebration of Slow
Food PittsburghHis life reads like a textbook of super-achievement.
Born in Athens, Greece, the son of a Greek army general, he ventured to the
United States at age 14 on an exchange student scholarship via the American
Field Service. He attended high school in Wilkes-Barre, Pa., then went to the
Massachusetts Institute of Technology, where he earned both a Bachelor's and a
Master's degree in chemical engineering.
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A tale of three cities
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Italy's far northeast corner invites discovery. Beyond the bustle of Venice and the social cachet of Lake Garda, three fascinating destinations -- Verona, Padua and Gorizia -- anchor the exploration of a region frequently missed out by both American and European travelers. Although linked by common control during the eras of the Roman Empire and the Venetian City State, the region otherwise has had a checkered political history. Today, Verona and Padua are in the province of Veneto; Gorizia situates in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The two provinces differ strikingly in scenery, culture and cuisine, but their proximity tucks them neatly into a 10-day excursion
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Extraordinary, diverse restaurants dot northeast Italy
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Food is serious in this part of Italy. Extraordinary restaurants rate easily on
a par with better-known regions such as Tuscany and Emilia-Romano -- and they're
more diverse. In Verona, a modest yellow awning, on a tiny side street, announces Il
Desco, one of the best restaurants in northern Italy. The simple entrance
belies the gorgeous interior. Sumptuous furnishings and superb service herald
wonderful food. For more than 20 years, chef-owner Elia Rizzo has adapted
traditional cuisine, bringing innovative touches to seasonal, indigenous
ingredients, constructing bold flavors: Guinea fowl, with a sauce of chocolate
and balsamic, atop mashed Jerusalem artichokes; sea bass, with veal sweetbreads,
oyster sauce and black truffle; beef cheeks, in a sauce of cinnamon and cloves;
risotto with celeriac and sweetbread ragout. Ask the sommelier to select wines
from the best small local producers.
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Fresh Fare
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Just 15 years ago, San Diego was a sleepy Navy town distinguished mostly for its
beautiful climate and proximity to Tijuana, Mexico. Fine-dining options were
few, and mostly steeped in older European traditions. But today, the region's
growth -- in population, convention/tourist traffic and sophistication -- is
igniting a vibrant restaurant scene. Drawing upon a bounty of local ingredients,
young, inventive chefs and managers address new market opportunities by opening
their own, way edgier restaurants.
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Bewitching Barcelona
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Last June, banners on every Catalonian highway overpass and numerous billboards
urged citizens to vote "Catalunya Si!" They did -- approving a new constitution
that gives greater autonomy to this Spanish region. Now travelers should opt in
for this area's attractions. Regional pride is everywhere in Spain, but in this
northeast corner of the country, citizens identify first as Catalan, then as
Spanish. The local lingua references French, reflecting close historical ties
between the two regions. Road signs and restaurant menus are distinctly
bilingual: Catalan and Spanish. For most of its history, the region
struggled through ping-pong politics, imposing external domination. In between
strife, though, came periods of prosperity that shaped a rich cultural identity.
Today, Catalonia and its vibrant capital, Barcelona, are hot!
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Balsamico can cost as much as century-old cognac
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Distillers of spirituous liquors have long referred to the reduction in
volume, through evaporation, of their maturing beverages as "the angels' share."
Years spent in the barrel improve and concentrate flavor, but diminishing
quantity clearly is an offsetting economic loss. Bottling, of course, cuts short
the angels' take. But Balsamico can barrel-age for 50 years or more. That should
give angels much cause to smile. A traditional product of Modena, Italy,
this precious elixir, drop for drop, can cost as much as century-old cognac or
whiskey. Like wine, it starts out as grapes. But in the vinegar-making process,
the grape "must," including skins and juice, are boiled for many hours rather
than being crushed and fermented as they would be for wine.
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Sophisticated International cuisine spices up London diners' palettes
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Did Julius Caesar introduce Italian cuisine when he invaded Brittania in 55 BC? It's an unlikely speculation but not totally preposterous. Perhaps the locals
welcomed him because they were fed up with overcooked and under-seasoned meals. Centuries of dominance in world commerce shaped London into a cosmopolitan city. But until recently, the food scene remained notoriously a culinary wasteland. The exception was non-native cuisines -- especially French, Indian
and Chinese. But these foods came from small ethnic eateries and served only as a footnote to tourism. Not so today: The British dining market hungers for
global cuisine and world-class local fare. Offering a cornucopia of modern, sophisticated restaurants, London now attracts destination diners.
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Finding freshness at London's Borough Market
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Napoleon Bonaparte once described England as "a nation of shopkeepers."
Nowhere does this British characteristic reveal itself more vibrantly than at
London's historic Borough Market. While boasting ancient roots -- records
suggest that a market in this vicinity existed as early as 43 A.D. -- this
unique emporium recently faced demolition. But tenacious traders and enlightened
trustees saved it from demise and rebuilt its glory. Today the popular market
bustles with more than 100 vendors and lively, munching crowds of local and
visiting shoppers.
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High Times in the Lowcountry
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Bob Carter and Bob Waggoner share the same first name and culinary passion. And
their establishments -- respectively, the Peninsula Grill and the Charleston
Grill -- sit across the street from each other in South Carolina's timeless,
charming city of Charleston. Both chefs cultivate the heady fare of "Lowcountry"
cooking, yet each presents distinctive innovations and sophisticated variations
on this regional Southern cuisine.
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In Manhattan, dining choices are top-notch
Ann & Peter Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Which city is the world's best dining destination? Guide Michelin would
undoubtedly favor Paris. But France-born Jacques Pepin, without hesitation, says
New York City. And few in-the-know disagree. But how to navigate such a vast sea
of options? Eat, brother, eat! And here's the dish.
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Basque in the glory of the modern Spanish kitchen
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Culinary stars — and Michelin stars — shine brightly in the Basque region of
northeastern Spain. Here, where the language to the uninitiated seems a
difficult-to-pronounce alphabet soup of K's, X's and Z's, world-class
restaurants and their passionate chef-owners cluster in and around the beautiful
town of San Sebastian -- Donostia to the natives. This city beside the
shell-shaped bay called La Concha -- with its broad avenues, sandy beaches and
Belle Epoque ambience -- holds more Michelin stars per capita than Paris. More,
in fact, than any other place on the planet.
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Fancy Food Show satisfies specialty appetites
Ann Haigh
The Pittsburgh Tribune Review
Call it a challenge: The 2008 Summer Fancy Food Show, sponsored by the
National Association of the Specialty Food Trade. The blockbuster event attracts
more than 25,000 visitors. For three days, they trawl the aisles of Manhattan's
Jacob Javits Convention Center, tasting free samples of 160,000 food products,
from more than 2,500 exhibitors, representing 77 countries. Whew! The Natural
and Organic Pavilion, new last year, this year spilled over to an additional
floor in the massive exhibition space. The categories for the sofi's --
specialty outstanding food innovation -- climbed to 32, awarding silver and gold
to everything from Outstanding Frozen Savory and Outstanding Pasta Sauce to
Outstanding Pet Product (Mega Bite Peanut Treat, from Big Bark Bakery).
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